WELCOME to Bunny Care and Handling!
So, you are deciding if you want a bunny. You’ve come to the right place. Learning about what it will take to care for your rabbit is a very important first step.
First things first – I am not a veterinarian. However, I have been caring for rabbits for over 25 years at animal centers, as pets, and while working in animal clinics. The information gathered here is from years of this hands-on work.
Please be aware that a rabbit is a bunny and a bunny is a rabbit and we will use both names throughout this article.
Let’s discuss some of the important aspects of caring for a rabbit like what type of housing to look for, what food do they eat, how to hold them, what enrichment they need, as well as preventative care so, hopefully, you don’t have to make a bunch of trips to the vet.
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HOUSING
First decision you have to make is if you are housing your rabbit inside the house or outside, and both can be the answer.
There are some pretty amazing rabbit enclosures on the market today. Some that are for indoor use only, others that are best for outside, and even some that you can take from inside to outside pretty easily. (Keep scrolling to the Health Care section for things to consider before moving your rabbit from inside to outside.)
Here are a few examples of rabbit hutches, but there are a lot of different ones out there. (Click on any picture to be taken to the Amazon link.)
No matter what cage you decide to get, there are a few things to remember when looking for the best housing for your rabbit.
–Rabbits need to be able to move around throughout their enclosure. Can it lay down without getting squished? Does it have a separate area for the litter box and sleeping den? You wouldn’t like to sleep in the bathroom, would you?
Bunnies need more space than most people think so the larger the enclosure you can make for your rabbit the better. A good rule of thumb is to make sure the cage is at least 4 times the size your adult rabbit will be, that way you don’t have to purchase more cages as your bunny grows.
–Rabbits will chew on everything, including their cage! Since a rabbit’s teeth are always growing, they need to keep filing them down. (See the Health Care section for what happens if their teeth get too long and what things you can do to help your bunny keep their teeth short.)
If you choose to get an enclosure with wood, you will need to make sure to inspect the wood on a regular basis and replace the pieces that are worn. This will keep your rabbit from getting hurt, escaping from their enclosure, and it will also help to keep predators out.
–If you choose to get an enclosure made out of wire, your rabbit can’t chew through that but, if the flooring is wire, make sure it is small enough so your rabbit’s feet won’t get stuck. If you get a wire cage with a plastic base, be sure to check for chewing on the plastic.
Rabbits are ground dwelling animals that dig which means they will even try to dig in their cages. If the wire bottom is too large, this can hurt their paws or even tear their nails when they are digging.
–To protect your rabbit from hurting itself, predators, and little hands that might get too rough with your bunny, make sure you have a top on your cage and a bottom, or base.
Rabbits do like to jump and if they can, they will try to jump out of their cage to see what’s around them. This can injure your bunny if they don’t jump high enough or if they get caught in their cage. By making sure your enclosure is complete with 4 sides, a top, and a bottom, this will keep your rabbit safe and secure.
If you choose to have your rabbit outside, a wire bottom will make it so that your bunny will not dig under the cage and escape. It will also prevent other animals from digging through and hurting your bunny.
Now that we have an idea of what the cage needs to have from a health and safety point of view, what do you need IN the cage?
Some rabbits can be litter boxed trained, meaning they go to the bathroom in a box. A litter box with either sand, dirt, or dust free litter can be used. Below are some suggestions for a litter box. Litter that is dust free is the best for rabbits.
You will also need bedding for your bunny. This bedding is not really to keep your rabbit warm, although it can if you house your rabbit outside. The bedding for the inside of the cage is to help keep the cage clean, to provide a nice place to lay, and to even help encourage digging to keep your rabbit from getting bored. (More on keeping your bunny active in our Playtime and Enrichment section.)
When choosing your bedding there are a few things you should stay clear of, like blankets or scented shavings.
Blankets, although cute for your bunny, can cause health issues if they get their claws stuck, if they eat the thread/yarn, or even peeing on the blanket and then they lay on it. Yuck.
Here are some great options for bedding for your bunny. (Click on the picture to learn more.)
Since rabbits usually live underground in burrows, they love to hide. Providing a box, den, or other hiding place will give your rabbit someplace to go if it feels afraid or if it wants to sleep. *Disclaimer: just because you give your bunny a den, doesn’t mean your bunny will want to go into it and that’s okay. It’s always nice to have options.
One of the easier den boxes is an actual box. Take off any tape that might be around the box and fold in the top and bottom. Cut a hole in one of the sides that is big enough for your rabbit to go through easily. Remember that your bunny will be chewing on things, which includes their den box. Replace the old box with a new one as needed. You can even add a little non-toxic paint to the box and decorate it for your bunny! (Even when they chew it, the non-toxic paint won’t harm them.)
Here are a few links to other den ideas for your bunny. You will notice that I choose not to add in plastic hides. Yes, those are an option but because of the constant chewing, I prefer items that they can chew on without ingesting harmful materials. Whatever you decide to do, watch for signs of chewing and replace when necessary.
Housing Checklist
- Is your cage big enough for when your rabbit is fully grown?
- Does your cage have 4 good walls, a top, and a bottom?
- Do you have easy access for cleaning the cage, feeding your bunny, and adding toys?
- Do you have proper bedding in the cage?
- Is there a den box for your bunny?
- Do you have a litter box?
Now that we have an idea of what the housing needs to be, the next important thing to add would be food and water!
Food and Water
Rabbits are grazing herbivores which means they need to have access to food all the time. Timothy hay and rabbit pellets are the best forms of food for your rabbit.
How you offer the food can be done in all kinds of ways. Do you want a bowl in their cage where you add the pellets daily? Do you want a gravity feeder so you fill it every few days? Do you want a special feeding station for hay? Would you like a hay feeder?
The size of your cage might also play a role in the type of feed stations you add. You can be as creative as you want to be when adding feeding stations, however, here are a few things to remember.
- Does your bunny have access to both hay and pellets all day?
- Will the hay and pellets stay clean and free from being pooped or peed on?
- Can your bunny reach the food without stretching too far or having to jump up high? (Remember they graze so they don’t like to have to work for their food too much.)
You will also need to add a salt or mineral block near the feeding stations. Salt is important to keep you rabbit healthy.
You can also add in treats occasionally to your rabbit’s diet once they are over 6 months old. Fruits are not good in general as they contain a lot of sugar. In fact, did you know that carrots can have a lot of sugar as well? So if fruits and carrots shouldn’t be fed, what treats can you feed your bunny?
There are a lot of lists out there online on what you can feed your rabbit. Here is a quick, and easy to obtain, list of good veggies and greens for your rabbit, but even these should only be feed once a day and no more than a tablespoon or two. Make sure all are free from pesticides and chemicals. (More on that in the Health Care section.)
- Red or green leaf lettuce
- Dandelion Greens
- Mustard Greens
- Bell peppers (no seeds)
- Squash
- Broccoli
Once you figure out how you want to offer the food, now you need to have someplace for the water.
There are animal water bottles that you can hang from the outside of the cage with a lixit that goes into the cage. These are great for rabbits that are housed inside. The water won’t get too warm and the algae doesn’t grow as fast indoors which means cleaning it won’t be too bad.
You can add just a bowl for the water as well, although I do suggest adding a bowl that attaches to the side of the cage as rabbits do tend to dump their water occasionally. This seems to be the better idea for rabbits housed outside so that you can change their water more frequently to keep algae from forming. Bowls are also easier to clean, especially when they are outside.
No matter if you choose to have a water bottle or a bowl, here are a few things to always remember.
- Rabbits need clean, fresh water daily. If your rabbit is outside, sometimes it is necessary to change out the water twice or even three times a day depending on how hot it is outside.
- Keep the water bottle or bowl clean by washing it on a regular basis. Different bacteria and algae form around water regardless if your bunny is housed inside or outside.
- Having access to water all day is essential for the overall health of your rabbit.
Here are a few ideas for food and water bowls.
Holding and Handling
We have the cage, the bedding, the food, and the water. Your set up is pretty much complete. Now what do you do when you bring your bunny home?
For the first few days, introduce your rabbit to its new surroundings. Holding your bunny during these days is an important step in making sure your rabbit feels comfortable.
Since rabbits live on the ground, and not in trees, they need to feel that they are on something solid and sturdy. This means that all of their feet need to be supported by you. Sometimes little arms are too small to hold a rabbit securely. A lap is a good alternative.
The more your rabbit gets held, the more they are used to being held and the more comfortable they will be.
Now to answer the question next on your mind. How do I pick up my rabbit without getting kicked or scratched?
Playtime and Enrichment
Do you like to see and experience new things? We all do, to some degree. Rabbits are no different.
You’ve set up their cage to be comfortable and safe, but you still need to add various things to keep your bunny from getting bored. We call this enrichment.
There are as many enrichment ideas out there as there are bunnies. There is no right or wrong way to provide enrichment but there are a few things to always keep in mind.
- Can my bunny get hurt by playing with this?
- Can my bunny get sick by eating this?
- Will this toy be fun for my rabbit, or scary? Enrichment is supposed to be fun!
- Am I giving my rabbit something it can do, or will it get frustrated? Since rabbits don’t climb, should you put something at the top of the cage where a rabbit can’t reach it?
- Think of things a rabbit might need to do in the wild. How could you provide that same activity at your house?
Here are a few ideas of playtime and enrichment. Click on the pictures to be taken to Amazon where you can purchase these items for yourself.
Have you ever gone on a treasure hunt to find toys or treats? You can do the same thing for your rabbit. Hide some treats, or a new toy, in a paper bag or under a small layer of dirt. By doing this you will engage your bunny’s natural ability to forage for things. A paper bag will allow them to rip and tear it open to get to the treats inside. Uncovering a toy under the dirt will encourage natural digging behavior.
Rabbit chew toys that you can find online or at a pet store are easy additions to your rabbit’s cage. These toys will help your rabbit keep its teeth from getting too long while giving them something to play with. Some rabbits will bury their own toys in their bedding, maybe saving them for later?
Animal playpens are like parks. They can extend your rabbit’s usual area while keeping them safe. Because a play pen usually doesn’t have a top or a bottom, you will need to remain with your rabbit to keep them safe. Playpens can be taken outside, into new areas of the house, or even to local parks. *Be sure to not put your bunny someplace that might have been sprayed with chemicals. If they eat grass that has been sprayed, they could get very sick.
You can even take your bunny on a walk! Rabbit harnesses will let your bunny roam and discover new areas while keeping him or her from running off. Be sure to always be aware of your surroundings and other possible animals. When a dog is on a leash, they can run back to you but a bunny doesn’t run as fast so you might have to pick them up to keep them safe. Harnesses that Velcro and snap at the back, I feel, are more secure and easier to work with, even though they are always sold for cats and dogs rather than rabbits. I have included one harness here that Velcros at the stomach and neck in case you’d prefer one like that.
Health Care
**This section is all about preventative health care for your rabbit. Please remember that I am not a veterinarian. These are simply ideas to help keep your bunny healthy. Before you ever bring home a new pet, make sure you have a local vet who can care for your animal if the need ever arises. **
There are things you can make sure you do to keep your rabbit healthy. This is called preventative care. We are trying to prevent, or stop, a trip to the veterinarian.
Since we started talking about the right cage for your rabbit, let’s start there and move through each section that was above.
By keeping your rabbit’s cage clean, you will limit the number of bugs and parasites that could cause your bunny trouble. Make sure to remove any nasty and old bedding and replace with clean bedding on a regular basis. Scrubbing the entire cage regularly will also help to keep parasites from bugging your rabbit. *”Regular basis” timelines will depend on how many rabbits you have in your cage. The goal is to keep everything clean. Sometimes this means weekly, and other times this means daily. Watch to see how much of a mess your bunny, or bunnies, make.
Keep checking on your rabbit’s cage and look for loose wires that could cause injury. Replace old, worn wood pieces that could give splinters. Check plastic bases for teeth and claw marks. Small holes might not be noticed by us all the time but can cause your rabbit injury if you aren’t careful.
If you want to take your bunny outside everyday, that’s great. Sunshine and fresh air are great for a bunny. However, always make sure your rabbit has enough shade to keep themselves cool. If you move their entire cage outside, and you are planning to leave them outside for a longer period, make sure the walls, floor, and top are secure. If you decide to leave your bunny outside for several days, make sure the weather is warm enough. Since your rabbit has been inside your house, his or her fur won’t be as thick to keep themselves warmer outside if the temperature drops. If it is too warm, add a frozen water bottle inside of their cage, in the shade, for your bunny to lay against and cool off.
Keep the food and water clean. Clean all food bowls and water bottles or bowls on a regular basis. Old, stale food can make your bunny sick and dirty water and water containers are a perfect place for bacteria to grow. These unseen dangers can be stopped by regular cleaning.
Hay needs to be fresh, dry, and clean. If hay is wet or damp it will develop mold and mildew that can make your rabbit sick.
When it comes to food and treats for your bunny, make sure they are clean and free from chemical sprays. A lot of yards get sprayed for bugs and spiders as well as weeds. These sprays are harmful to your rabbit if injested. Even walking on grass that has been sprayed can be bad since rabbits lick their feet to help keep themselves clean. If you think your rabbit might have injested something toxic, contact your vet.
When you are holding your rabbit, make sure it doesn’t fall as that could cause harm to their feet, legs, and even back. We can’t always stop a bunny from jumping from our arms so, try to be sure you aren’t too high up so that it isn’t as risky.
Double check that your enrichment won’t trap, injure, or make your rabbit sick. When in doubt, ask. If you still aren’t sure, don’t give it.
There are also things YOU can learn how to do, like clipping your rabbit’s nails, checking on its teeth, or giving it a bath, to keep trips to the vet down.
Clipping nails — Be careful not to cut the nail too short as there is a nerve in the nail that can bleed. This is called the “quick”. Just take a little off the nail to keep your bunny from scratching you too much. Allowing your bunny to dig will keep the nails down naturally.
Teeth — If a bunny’s teeth become long they are unable to eat. By checking on your rabbit’s teeth, you are able to see if you need to offer more items to chew on or even if a trip to the vet is needed to have them file the teeth down.
Bath — Rabbits have a natural oil throughout their skin. Even through you can give your bunny a bath with water, it isn’t a good idea as those oils will be taken away. The better way, if needed, is to give your bunny a dry bath with corn starch. Sprinkle some corn starch to the soiled areas of the fur. Rub in and then comb through the fur. Take a damp cloth and wipe away any extra corn starch that might remain on your bunny.
Fun and Interesting Facts
There will always be new things to learn about caring for a rabbit. Keep doing your research and keep asking questions.
For now, here are a few fun facts that you may or may not know about a bunny.
Thanks for coming!
- Rabbits will eat their own poop in the morning. This is called coprophagy. This helps their body to get all the nutrients it needs. (And, yes, totally disgusting! But if you see your bunny doing this, it is totally normal)
- Rabbits can turn their ears about 180 degrees. This allows them to focus their hearing in a single direction.
- Sometimes a rabbit will jump when they are happy. Have you ever been so excited you “jumped for joy”?
- Rabbits will scent mark items by rubbing their chin on things. It’s their way of making that object theirs.